Archive for the ‘Cyprane mk2 vaporiser’ Category


Cleaning a Mk 2 vaporiser.
In 1960 the design of the control valve was modified, this modification allows the control valve to be dismantled for cleaning without altering the calibration, they are identified with the letter ‘A’ added to the serial number. It may be before or after the number.

mkII fig1

The instruction book from which these instructions are taken from say that all others (that is the ones without the ‘A’) should be returned to the firm for cleaning.


1. remove the back cover 47015 (fig 2.)


Having removed the four screws the back cover may still stick to the main body, this is due only to the stickiness of the shellac on the joint.
A slight tap will allow it to be removed and as it comes away a spring, 47059 (fig 3) will also come out.

2. Carefully withdraw the bypass valve, 47057 (fig 30) and place this in a position where it will not be damaged.

3. Put the dial of the fluotec to the off position and by using the special circlip pliers, the circlip ‘T’ is removed.
This will release spring, 47049 (fig 3) (my note, take great care removing the circlip so as not to damage it, you may need to re-use it).


4. Remove the spring indicator, 47014 (fig 4) by taking out the 2 screws ‘J’ and ‘W’

5. Remove screw ‘W’ and then the spiral peg, 47020, can be removed from the spiral (figs 4 and 5).



6. The spindle,47041 (fig 5) can be completely removed by turning and pulling the dial, 47024 (fig 5). If the spindle is at all tight in the body, put a few drops of Fluothane into the spindle bore at point ‘D’ (fig 6).

Allow the liquid to soak into the bore for about an hour and then it will be found that the spindle can be removed easily. However, if the spindle is still tight then repeat the procedure.
If this fails, the spindle removing tool (T9) may be used.

It will be found in the cleaning kit alongside the cleaning rod and is a short round piece of metal with a hole in one end. (there is no picture of this in the handbook, but you are unlikely to have the kit anyway). I would imagine it is a piece of round brass with a shallow hole drilled in one end which is a little bit larger in size than the spindle end, you tap this gently with a light hammer, if you cannot make one tap it out from the rear using a piece of wood or plastic and again with a light hammer. DO NOT tap straight on to the spindle itself.
Great care must be taken not to bend the spindle or damage the bore.

7. The bore of the control valve should then be cleaned. Moisten the felt of the cleaning rod with Fluothane, if you do not have the rod use a piece of cloth on a thin wooden stick.
Take care not to scratch the bore.
Clean the spindle with a cloth soaked in Trilene.
When the Trilene has evaporated, blow away any cloth fibres that may have been left behind.
Now smear the bearing surfaces of the spindle with a thin coating of ‘Vaseline’, (petroleum jelly), probably available from your pharmacy.

8. Re-insert the spindle (fig 5) into the body and work it in and out a few times to make sure that it is quite free and working smoothly.
If not, remove the spindle, re-clean the bore and the spindle, re-grease and re-fit.
Note. the amount of petroleum jelly must be kept to a minimum.
9. Having made the spindle work freely in the bore, the re-assembly can begin by pressing the dial, 47024, as far into the body as it will go.

10. Insert the spring, 47049 (fig 6), large diameter first, over the end of the spindle.
Compress the spring with the spring compressor (fig 7)

and fit a new circlip by means of the circlip pliers whilst the spring is compressed. (my note. if you do not have a new one, fit the old one if it is in good condition).
Make sure the clip is firmly in the groove in the spindle (figs 6 and 7).

11. Rotate the spindle, 47041, until the spiral is directly under the hole ‘B’ (fig 5).

12. Carefully fit the spiral peg, 47020, into the hole ‘B’ (fig 5) and into the spiral, making sure that it enters the spiral correctly without any interference.

13. Hold the spiral peg, 47020, in position and rotate the dial, 47024, to make sure that it moves freely. Replace screw ‘W’.

14. Refit the spring indicator, 47014, by means of screws ‘W’ and ‘J’ noting that the screw ‘W’ is the longer one and should be fitted nearer the dial.

15. Carefully clean and replace the bypass valve, 47057, (fig3). Note: This valve is fitted with a timing sleeve which is held in position by a large circlip ‘B’, but should never be dismantled. because it is a timing sleeve which is set dimensionally to suit its particular ‘Fluotec’ and is not interchangeable.

16. Clean the joint face of the rear cover, 47015, (fig 3) and also the appropriate face of the valve body.

17. Take a new joint, reference 47040, and coat each side with a thin layer of Shellac which has been dissolved in methylated spirits to give a thin solution. Insert the larger diameter of the spring, 47059, into the recess in the rear cover, 47015, and the small diameter of the spring over the raised portion of the bypass valve, insert the four screws and tighten down evenly.
My note: If you do not have a new gasket, you might try a motor repair shop for some thin gasket material, the Shellac is the sort of thing you might find in a watch repair shop.

18. The assembly is now complete and the dial should be operated a few times to make sure that the action is quite smooth.

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